My first morning in Seville was very wet. I wore my raincoat but it was not nearly enough protection, so I popped into a shop and bought a bright magenta umbrella. Walking on the tiny sidewalks and narrow streets becomes even more challenging when everyone is using umbrellas. I read that the cathedral wasn't open until 11, but I saw a side door that was open before 10. I slipped inside and saw a sign that said it was only open for Mass, not sight seeing. Perfect! Mass was being held in the main part of the church. The six priests and their assistants were by the altar in front of the massive center altarpiece, the largest in Europe, gothic in style and lavishly covered in gold. The pews were facing it and behind them was the "choir" area where another dozen priests or monks were worshipping. This meant that the congregation was situated between them and heard the beautiful chanting in stereo.
I've never seen incense used as lavishly and frequently as these priests used it. And I grew up going to an Episcopal Church that didn't scrimp in that area. The priests in the front wore vibrant purple robes and those behind magenta and white. They were a lovely contrast to the stone and gold and dark wood. They reminded me of a colorful flock of birds.
The bells used during Mass sounded more like train whistles than harmonious tinkling of bells that I'm used to. Afterwards we we're ushered out so that the paying tourists could enter.
The first thought that I had when I entered the cathedral was "Wow, this is massive!" Besides St. Peter's in Rome and St. Paul's in London, this is the biggest Gothic cathedral in the world. I've been in a lot of immense cathedrals but this one feels as if it is twice as big as them. The sheer size is mind numbing!
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